I had an a ha moment
the other day. After a disastrous first muslin for Jacqui's Cambie
that will be part of a robin hood costume I was stumped about what to
do next. I had traced the largest size and done a full bust
adjustment so that the front bodice had 2 darts but it was still to
small and the darts where just horrible. Frumpsville.
1st muslin pattern with added width added. You can see the original dart. |
I decided to go big or
go home and added an inch to the front and back side seams and an
inch to the centre back and sewed up muslin no.2 except this time I
didn't sew up the vertical front bust darts. When Jacqui came for
her fitting I was patting myself on the back because at least this
time she was all covered up. There was a lot of room in a few spots
but at least she wasn't naked. Success. I took out a sharpie drew a
dot for her nipple and pinned a dart that actually fit her body.
Hours later I unpinned
the dart that I had just drawn up and felt like I had discovered
something pattern companies and companies that make rtw for plus
sized women don't want you to know about. I have often complained
that straight darts just do not make sense. We are dressing a curve
so the dart must be curved.
Here is a picture of Jacqui's custom pattern. |
See how it curves under
makes another point and then straightens out. Almost like a dart you
would find on a shift dress only more extreme. On a shift dress the
vertical darts start out at the bust comes in at the waist and then
flares out again at the hip line. But on Jacqui's body and mine our
"waist" is not that smallest part. And I
don’t know why we should pretend it is.
I sewed up the darts on
the muslin and held it up to me own body. Jacqui and I are not the
same size so while nothing else fit or looked right my boobs have
never looked better with clothes on. I was so excited I emailed
Jacqui declaring I had solved the big boobed code.
I have since changed my
mind. This amazing dart hasn't solved all my fitting problems but it
is a lesson I will never forget.
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