Wardrobe Architect

Last couple of weeks I have been distracting myself from from Uni work with the Wardrobe Architect series from Colette Patterns. It is a series of questionnaires and tasks that all together are designed to help the user make more thoughtful wardrobe choices, based on things the wearer likes to wear.  It isn't about your body shape, or what kind of fruit you resemble the most, or even if your complexion looks more like summer or autumn.  It focuses on what the wearer likes, and what the wearer feels most comfortable in.  Mindful choices.

In retrospect I should have started the program at the beginning of the year when I started my "no new fabric pledge".  Making more mindful choices was right there as one of my goals in my pledge post. I had tried to do the Wardrobe Architect when it was first published in 2014, and again in 2015.  But it's hard.  It's hard for me to really think about the choices I make when I dress myself.  I had to dig deep. My five words I came up with are

comfortable, coordinating, cleavage, transitional, structured 

I am sure the cleavage will get a raised eyebrow but it was the best way I could describe the kind of feeling I was trying to convey, that of room and freedom around my neck. 

When we were asked about what silhouettes we liked I discovered a few things about myself I had not realised before

First off, I wear mostly skinny jeans and I don't know if I like other pant silhouettes.  How have I not noticed that before? I like skirts and dresses but have difficulty feeling comfortable in them because they make me feel a bit naked.  Jackets and blazers that are cut close to the body make me feel like an Amazon in pygmy clothes, even if they technically fit.  Everything should have pockets. 

I have organised my inspiration into different headings 

Casual

Fancy

Colour Story

Texture

I chose to use the word "texture" instead or "pattern" because I like the texture of woven woolens and tweed as much or more then polka dots and stripes right now.  After the colour exercise I went through my stash and took about everything that made me feel blah or outright uncomfortable.  Amazingly it has made me feel so much better about my stash and sewing room in general.  Before looking at my stash made me feel uncomfortable, I assumed because it represented a lot of work.  Now looking at it makes me feel a little joy as I can imagine wearing all of those fabrics on my body, and feeling good about them. Capsule wardrobe planning is coming up and I have a few ideas.

Jeans

I have a pair of these on my sewing table right now.  This program has made me take stock of the things I actually need and want, so the floaty tops I had planned were put aside and the Ginger Jeans pattern were pulled out.

Pants

I really like the idea of a relaxed pant worn with a belt.  Not sure if I would like it on myself but I am willing to try.  The hard part is choosing which pattern.  Leaning towards the Guise pants in the middle.  From left to right Gilbert trousers, Guise pants and Hampshire trousers.

Shirts

This exercise has made me realise I really like a casual button up shirt in something drappy.  I have never worn that style assuming shirts are for the professional environment but I am itching to give it a go.  From left to right Chemise Merlot, Archer shirt, Granville shirt, blouse with short sleeves.  The big question is Archer vs Granville? I love the look of a straight shirt on other people, but when your curvy or big busted they just look boxy and frumpy instead of relaxed.  Have to weigh up my options.

Outerwear

I have black cashmere, red wool, blue tweed and lots of other outerwear fabric horded in my stash and I am excited to get cutting into some of it this winter.  From left to right Ziggi jacket, Yuzu Raglan coat, Camden cape (with pockets), Clare coat, white biker jacket.  I really want to make a Camden I had bought and put aside wool, lining and buttons for one right after it came out in November.  The others I am unsure off.  I hope I can make a biker jacket this winter.  A coat as well seems unlikely at this point but its nice to dream.

If anyone wants to do the Wardrobe Architect along with other people in real time Christine Haynes is doing it atm on her blog.

No pledges were broken in the writing of this post

I finished placement this afternoon. It is hard to make non nurses really understand placement.  OK I think doctors might understand. Before it starts I meal prep every meal, and barely look up until the following Friday. Weekends are for cleaning the house and meal prepping for the next week.  During the week the only thing I pay attention to other then placement is how much sleep I am getting and how many days I have between bowel movements. Sorry for the over share, but nursing you know.  My first placement I didn't pay attention to that and it ended badly.  

It has been over three months since I took my "no new fabrics" oath.  I have not bought any fabric since.  It has been hard as I predicted. In February I took my Step-Dad and the Boyfriend out fabric shopping to another Phillips shirts sale.  My Step-Dad bought the fabric and I bought him lunch so that doesn't count right?  No new fabric was found but it was a lot better organised and there were a bunch of fashion people there.  I thought I would show you what they bought as well as the fabrics from my last haul from the Spotlight boxing day sale. 

Firstly the fabric my Step-Dad picked out.  He saw The Brothers shirt and wanted one for himself. It is a really soft cotton.  The event states cottons start at $5 but I was charged $8 by the sales person.  Hmmmmmm.

The Boyfriend picked out a black pinstripe for a short sleeve shirt appropriate for casual events.  Also a cotton, it was labelled "made in Japan".  

I did not buy anything for myself and I felt good about that.

So in December I went to spotlight for top stitching thread and accidentally bought 9 meters of fabric at the sale.  Sigh.  This is why I needed to do something about my fabric buying habit.  I found some more cotton/linen that I used to make The Brothers shirt. So I bought some more in another print to make him another shirt.  Lets be clear, I had just finished his first shirt the week before, my selfless sewing track record is pretty bad, and his birthday is in September.  Why did I think I would find the motivation to sew him another shirt? It is a nice print but still.  When a sign says 40% off all rationality gets thrown out the window.

Last couple of months I have seen a lot of not horrible looking denim at Spotlight.  I feel like this is a new development? I succumbed.  Instead of a pair of Ginger Jeans this stretch denim looks like it wants to be a pair of Birkin Flares.  I was worried at first that Birkin Flares wouldn't suit a curvy body type.  The back pockets are almost unflattering in a flattering way.  Then I saw Reyna Lay's pair.  She is beautiful curvy sewing blogger and looks amazing in her Birkin's. 

Last but not least.  This stretch denim is my favourite.  This is a cotton/wool/lycra blend.  The right side looks like normal denim but the underside feels like a soft brushed wool. Winter jeans! yes it is white denim.  Don't worry I am going to dye it.  I don't really mind how it comes out of the dying bath, if they look even or if they look like Foonik's gingers I can't imagine being disappointed.  My friends tell me I wear crazy pants anyway.

That New Year Post/Fabric Stash Pledge

I have been thinking a lot about what I want to do differently in 2016.  Hopefully I will graduate for the last time this year (let's hope nursing sticks!) and my head is full of placement dates and job application stuff.  I turned 30 in November and this will hopefully be the last year I am a student, I have been very tempted to do something crazy like dye my hair purple, or shave it all off.  Soon I will be interviewing for jobs and will have to look presentable.

I have been thinking a lot about style and wardrobe building and how little sewing I did the last two years of uni.  During the semester I hibernate on the couch surrounded by textbooks.  Even if my course load doesn't take up a lot of time, it takes up a lot of my mental energy.  I keep my sewing room tidy, sit in my comfy chair and listen to recorded lectures.

I really want that to change this year.  I have been planning for weeks to do a "no buying new clothes" pledge to try and spur on my sewing.  The year I turned 21 I took on a "no new clothes" pledge and that has some symmetry for me.  Starting and ending the decade making more thoughtful choices about what I am buying and sewing.  But during the last couple of days in my sewing room I have come to a few conclusions.  I should only take on a pledge like that if I feel overwhelmed by how many clothes I buy.  Truth is after that pledge when I was 21 I don't have a problem buying new clothes.  I buy the bare minimum (bras, jeans) maybe twice a year and that's it. I do have a problem with buying fabric.  I wouldn't say NEW fabric because a lot of my stash I have found thrifting

I feel overwhelmed by my stash.  I have 12 sewing machines but when I want to change machines I have to move piles of fabric around to make room. Even when my sewing mojo is hibernating I can still go into a store and leave with two big bags of "couldn't pass it up" fabric.

I look at a trip to the fabric store as inspiration.  Problem is I can't just leave the store with ideas and a refreshed mojo.  Most of it I don't have a project in mind when I buy it.

It is not that I just need a better storage solution then piles on flat surfaces.  I have a built in wardrobe in my sewing room which I filled when I moved in to this house three years ago.  On the left is my scrap pile.  Yes that is the "hanging" space crammed in with scraps of fabric.  Top shelf is outerwear, below that is linings, then its dress weight and the bottom shelf is blouse weight (blouse weight is that a thing?).  My stash runneth over.

I need to stop buying fabric with so little thought.  It is not that I have read other bloggers pledges, in fact this year I haven't read any pledges of any sort.  Maybe the bloggers I read are not feeling very introspective.  I don't have a pledge I am going to cut and paste my name on to.  It is something I have come to slowly, feel like I HAVE to do but am not looking forward to very much.  I think it is going to be hard.  So ...

I will buy no fabric in 2016 

with a few guidelines ...

• I can buy patterns and notions when and if I need them
• I can buy fabric for specific garments if my stash has failed me

I currently do not feel I have a problem with over buying patterns or notions.  If you read my other posts you may notice the patterns I like I sew over and over.  I sew my own undies and may one day venture into bras.  I am planning to sew some casual cosplays for PAX Australia 2016.  I will not be making anything that far out of my skill set, no covering boots or building amour, I like to sew clothes! but colour and weight is specific.  Projects that require fabric not in my stash I can buy for but only when I am currently working on them.  No buying fabric for garments in my "to sew queue".  This pledge is less about black and white restrictions and more about severely reducing my mindless fabric consumption.

I am hoping that this time next year I will feel more in control of my stash, making more thoughtful choices about things I want to sew AND wear and will have more space in my sewing room.

Shopping for Christmas Sewing

My younger Brother is a tall, solid guy who likes to grow a beard and wear polyester Hawaiian shirts.  I have been planning to make him a non-polyester shirt for a while, Christmas felt like the time to do it.  The first muslin went well and serendipity happened a local shirt brand Phillips Shirts announced a fabric sale for the coming week, they only sell fabric to the public during special retail events.

Not my brother.  I googled "horrible hawaiian shirt neck beard".

A quick google and I was pretty sure we could find something the Brother would like.  Found this shirt for sale on the website.  You can see why I thought we would be able to find something.

Unbeknownst to me Phillips Shirts have been in murky waters for a while.  For a company that proclaims they never sell to the public, evidence of their previous fabric sales can be found on the net.  It was pretty obvious that their stash of fabrics had been picked over.  They made a lot of liberty shirts over the years, but the liberty pile was really really small with very little yardage left.

liberty shirts for sale

If I had been by myself I would have given up on finding the shirt fabric there but the Brother was determined.  We started chatting to one of the staff members and she pulled out a bolt of plaid that is POLYESTER but the Brother could not be swayed.

Very purple.  The Brother said he want's to enter a room and someone say "gosh that is an ugly shirt".  I pulled out a couple of deep purples and a rich emerald green and said "look these would be joker shirts" he insisted the plaid is cooler.  I had to pay extra for polyester (cottons $5, polyester $8) but he insisted it was the one he wanted.

I bought this one to make a shirt for the BF.  He is embarking on a career change in the new year.  Making him a interview shirt for good luck.  I have made him a shirt before sometime in 2014 so most of the fitting is done.  The staff member thought it might have some linen in it, gave it to me for the price of a cotton.  When the BF saw it I actually got a big smile.  Success.

I felt this one before I saw it.  Buried in the back of the silks it felt so soft on my hand I pulled it out and "ooohhhhh"ed.  It is just over a metre of the softest cotton flannel in dove grey.  It will be a winter Tiny Pocket Tank eventually.

I fell pretty hard for this fabric when I saw that emblem.  The BF has suggested I actually look up what it means before I put it on my body, and I concede that he is probably right.  It is a super soft silk, in a light blue/grey with three colour stripes and emblems.  I saw it and it reminded me straight away of Harry Potter.  The staff lady was surprised I liked the emblem.  She was cutting it and said in a sheepish tone "now it has breaks in the stripes and some logo's"  All silks were priced at $12 a metre.  

Not sure what this graphic silk will be, I might give it to another sewing person in the family for Christmas.  Not sure.  I am on the fence.  I know she would like it but could I use it to line a project I am planning for next semester.  Have to have a play with fabrics.

I "ooohhhhhh"ed over this one too.  Muted white silk.  They had a stark white silk that almost looked like it had blue in it too, but I went for this one.  So soft.  Can you see those pencil lines in it? Someone was going to cut several shirts out of this (though they are very cropped, with a massive bust dart so it may have been a womans shirt with a peplum? diversifying the brand?) and changed their mind. It was already cut in a metre and two metre lengths.  I got the whole three metre's for $12, the staff member said she couldn't use it or sell it so just take it.  It is in the wash now so hopefully it will come out.  This will be another V1247, so if it doesn't come out I will be doing some very careful cutting to avoid those lines.

Leaving you with some shots I got of the Phillips Shirts Building *cough cough* with my phone.  It is heritage listed.  I love it when Melbournians get all crazy about our history.  I should have gotten more photo's.

EDIT

The sale is still on here are the dets https://www.facebook.com/events/1649743555294866/

pencil lines didn't come out :(

Leather

Again apologies to the vegans.

My birthday is in November.  So is my Mother's and Gran's.  A family full of Scorpio's.  Anyway Friday my Mum and I dressed up to the nines and took each other out to high coffee.  Like high tea.  But with delicious coffee instead of gross tea.  I did try and wake up my BF and get photos of the dress.  Friday is his sleep in day and I didn't want to piss him off to much.  If this photo taking thing is too painful he will revolt.

We hit NSW leather Co on the way.  Surreal experience. Let me set the scene.  Friday afternoon, super trendy hipster suburb, two generations of women stumble in, with wide eyes, mouth open dressed in cocktail dresses and heels.  I sure they thought we were nuts.  Not super warm or welcoming.  I get it. I stole this photo from Waffleon.  I was not going to ask the staff if I could take a photo.

They price things in square foot.  WTF.  I don't want to get all metric vs imperial but my brain does not work in feet.  This did not help the staff's impression of me.  It seemed reasonably priced though.  I only looked at the single sheep leathers on the table pictured.  They were priced at $4 something a square foot.  It gets cheaper the more you buy.  They very much cater to local designers and manufacturing.  They have a scrap box priced at $2 a square foot.  Lets open the haul I got for $47.

oooohhhhh

They said this was a sheep skin.  It is very soft and thin.  I was looking for something to use as a detail on a jacket.  I wanted something that felt really nice but doesn't add bulk.  Jacket sewing AND sewing with leather.  Very intimidating. Cue sewing stress.  Wish me luck.

I wanted something to make next years school bag.  I have been using the Madrid I made this time last year.  It boosted my mood everyday at uni using a bag I made that didn't look super handmade.  No becky homecky here.  So I want to incorporate some leather into my next bag.  The colour is really nice, not sure if it comes through in this picture, and it feels substantial compared to the black. 

Some samples.  The most beautiful red cowhide and a super soft piece labelled as distressed fudge.  This made me laugh. 

cotton and viscose Italian fabric from Tessuti

silk kimono fabric from Kimono House

We also went to Tessuti and Kimono House.  Tessuti the store is very intimidating.  I have been there several times before but I still get the heebeegeebees there.  I have never been to Kimono house before, it look's like it caters to quilters more than people who sew clothes.  The lady was really nice though.  It was a breath of fresh air after the misunderstanding's at NSW leather and the Prue & Trude skit at Tessuti.

Shopping Instead of Sewing

And now it's the Easter holidays! The last 6 weeks for me have been crazy.  I have done a little bit of sewing but it's for someone else and not blog worthy.  I have been doing a lot of reading and trying to remember lots of long words.  That memorising thing isn't really working, something I will have to work on because exams start in 5 weeks, but the rest of uni has been great.  I'm understanding things that I have seen nurse's do before and baffled me and every time I go to work I feel like uni is making me better at my job.  I am still not doing any nursing care don't worry. 

One thing I did get to do recently was go to the Alannah Hill/Danger field/Gorman factory outlet after I read on sewnbyelizabeth that they sell fabric there! She forgot to mention buttons and notions! I bought some fabric but I am most excited about the buttons. The fabrics are up the stairs in the far right corner.  The rest of the store can be a bit full on but the woman who served me was lovely and made me feel at ease in an instant.  She cuts the fabric, makes small talk, does her calculations, sticks the bill to the front of your bag of fabric and you pay down stairs with everyone else. I spent about $120. 

Firstly some fabrics that were labelled Alannah Hill.  The spots I think is a lining.  It is very thin and slippery but the hand is crisp and I imagine easy to sew.  I think I will be using it as a lining one day.  The floral just looks like Alannah Hill to me, yes that's why I bought it, but it was labelled 100% silk and is so soft and fluid.  It was $12 a meter.  In my world that's a bargain. 

These fabrics were labelled Danger Field and they do look it.  They remind me of my misspent youth.  The outlet had a lot of really amazing wools, lots of different weights and textures, not that many colours though.  Lots of black and plaid, one brown and few "prints" that aren't really prints as the pattern is weaved in. All of the wools I saw were marked at $10 a meter.  This black was the cheapest at $7 and I think it is a blend of some kind. But all of the others were either to heavy and blanket like or too light and pashmere like for what I wanted. I don't think this plaid is a wool either but I liked it in the store.  

How cool are these buttons? Almost everything in the button box were things you wouldn't see at a fabric store.  None of these cost more the $1 each.  The huge black ones that are actually black fabric with metal rims were $1.  Pearl buttons that just scream Alannah Hill. Yes those are clasps covered in red satin, they had pink satin ones as well but I passed. And little metal looking textured buttons.  

I will be going back to this store again.  I'm still planning tops with sleeves but I am also obsessing about winter coat sewing.  My anniversary with the BF is coming up and he wants to get me either a stethoscope or a pair of heels but I am trying to convince him sewing patterns make good presents. I am thinking about the Rigel Bomber.

Awesome boob friendly bomber

I have a new sewing machine to show off too! I'll try and get good day time photos of it soon.

Window Shopping

A few details about my life before I get into the sewing talk...

A few years ago I emerged from University with a degree and not many job options. I looked around for a while and after several months of nothing but judgemental looks from the staff at centrelink I got a job working in a hospital. Not what I studied but I took it. Now on the first day at work the staff gave me a uniform and told me how to wash my hands and sent me on my way.  Don't worry I'm not actually responsible for nursing care.  

I've decided to go back to Uni this year and get my nursing degree. I've only just realised how much this decision is going to turn my life upside down more then any other time I have done tertiary study. Now putting aside all the reading and time management it seems my wardrobe is going change a lot. 

I have to wear short sleeves (at least 5 cm about the elbows) cleavage covering tops most days at Uni to be allowed into the practise labs.  I have avoided that shape for a long time.  My "uniform" is usually a knit tank top jeans and a cardigan or a woven tank top jeans and a cardigan.  Throw on a scarf and jacket for colder weather. So I have to make some things to wear.

Now to the fun part. Picking patterns...

kimono top

I already own a copy of this pattern and have made it up a handful of times.  It's an easy little top I can make in a day that doesn't have darts.  I usually only wear them on really hot days because wearing it with a cardigan is comical.  This is what I have been wearing most days at Uni.  I think I will have to make up again at least once.

Sinbad and Sailor Fitted Dove T

I have already bought this one as well. I half made it up once and then remembered I don't LIKE sleeves and boob covering tops.  It makes wearing cardigans difficult and makes me look like a barrel. I don't think my lecturers at Uni will appreciate my feelings on this so I guess I will try again.  Hopefully if I pick a really young and out there print it won't make me look that horrible. 

Sewaholic Renfrew

I "own" a copy of this one as well. I traced my Mum's copy. Never made it up.  Knits are a little scary I am not going to lie.  I can make a mean pair of panties or a singlet top but I use lace on all the raw edges and those are never going to be seen by anyone who isn't sleeping with me or doing my laundry. Wearing a knit top outside the house that's different.  But it's an option.

Megan Nielsen Briar Tshirt

Finally some window shopping! I don't think I could do the crop top version and that curved hem in a knit would give me nightmares but I love the versions I have seen around.  So flattering. 

SewChic Ehlen Blouse

This top looks adorable! I've never bought anything from Sew Chic Patterns or heard much about them. I found this pattern during a late night net lurking. It really tickles my vintage sensibilities. I would probably need to do an FBA and fiddle with the peplum to get it to fit. My instinct would be to deepen the V. Don't think my lectures would like that. 

Grainline Scout T

I live in Grainline's Tiny Pocket Tank so I should already own this one. But a few things have stopped me from buying.  I don't know if the relaxed, dartless, kinda short shape will suit me and I don't like sleeves. I would probably lower the neckline a tiny bit.

Vogue 1247

The fun one! I have been meaning to buy this one just because of all the great ones around the sewing blogs. So flattering once you get the size right.  She even looks like a nurse kinda.  A sexy sexy nurse that wants to take your blood pressure. Something about her expression, short skirt and horrible pocket placement.

Salme Cut Out the Shoulder Dress

A dress! I am tempted by this one.  I can overlook the fact that it's a shape and silhouette usually pushed on plus sized women by rtw clothing companies.  Hate your arms but look like a blob when you cover them up? Look we cut a hole for you! Don't really have a waist, especially when you indulge with a large meal? It's called elastic and we have some for you! If it was in a plus sized clothing store it would have a necklace sewn into the shoulder seams, or even worse a picture of a necklace printed onto the neckline. Gross. I do think it will look great with some boots and leggings in winter if I get the length right. Without a fake necklace.

Just have to finish a very special dress then I can get started on this project.  And you know do some Uni home work.